You can enter Srinagar by the long and winding southern road from Jammu, and if you start early in the day, you will reach when the sun is slowly dipping into the fragrant fields of basmati rice that stretch before it. Or you can fly in, passing through the seven gates of security control of a modern airport. We chose the road: a Maruti steered by a Sikh driver with quick reflexes and a reassuring smile that never once faltered. On our way, we passed a town where only sweets are made an