On Saturday nights, the head waiter at Xander’s Café placates people waiting to be seated. The café doesn’t take reservations and it can take up to 20 minutes to get a coveted table on the weekend. Surreptitiously wrapped bottles of alcohol, procured from the city’s bootleggers, rest on some tables along with Chanel bags. On most days, those dining appear to have been transplanted straight out of the society pages: scions of landholding families, politicians, models, designers and m