The buses disgorged visitors every few minutes and sped away to allow new arrivals. Traffic had been diverted and policemen waved cars away to follow new routes around the church complex in Old Goa. Like ants crawling toward sugar, visitors of all ages from different parts of the country walked along a narrow street lined with shops and vendors squatting by the roadside. Some sold cheap trinkets and others stuffed bun paus with greasy rosaries of red chorizo sausage for eager buyers. A make