All you need to do to wake up Raju Narayanan, the fisherman-social activist, sleeping on the beach is to turn over a few times on the sandy bed. Just as vibration-sensitive beach crabs scurry for cover into tiny holes, Narayanan too shakes off the sand and is on his feet, instantly wide awake. Kovalamkuppam, the tiny fishing village at Kovalam, Chennai, is fast asleep as small groups reach their boats, their silhouettes barely visible against the dim lamps far away. They will lift and d