In December 2000, Kumarasamy Thangaraj flew to Port Blair, took an overnight ferry to Hut Bay on Little Andaman Island, and then travelled by road and a small motor-boat to Dugong Creek. “It was thrilling,” he says, mentioning crocodiles in the water and the rough sailing on the last leg of the journey, where a rivulet meets the sea. At Dugong Creek, he was amazed to see the Onge people spearing fish with sharpened wooden sticks. This semi-nomadic aboriginal people, of whom fewer th