Every day around sunset, on the outskirts of Lahore, at the Wagah border between India and Pakistan, the public gathers to see a show of military muscle and colour in a ceremony that dates back to 1959. People from all walks of life become part of the message to the other side. They hold posters expressing solidarity with Kashmir, as loudspeakers blare patriotic songs. There’s also a recorded recitation of Quranic verses that focuses on non-believers. The road from Pakistan goes u