Across the road from the Church of St Alex in Curtorim, a narrow paved road branches off through Muxivaddo, past lush paddy fields on one side and brick houses with low, sloping roofs set back among large leafy trees on the other.There’s scarcely a soul about as my friend Ajay and I ride between tall coconut trees that rise on either side like arches spanning the heavens overhead; their shadows intertwine in a tight embrace on the narrow road, receding as we motor through, tracing the worn asph