Down by the Athreya Godavari in Thallarevu, 18 kilometres south of Kakinada in East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, where the hyancinth-filled creek meets the sea near Yanam, a huge banyan tree shelters a hut temple, and on open land amid tree trunks, planks, and detritus, five boats loom large against the blazing sky. Two are almost finished, two have a long way to go before they sail, and one is under repair. The boats sit on piles of sawn wood, propped up on empty tin barrels wit