The hills kept us company as the road wound its way out of Ramnagar, Uttarakhand, in the sturdy Mahindra that our driver Govind had managed to wrestle to the railway station two hours after our train arrived one early May morning. We’d left Delhi the night before. It was my first journey to erstwhile Corbett country and Philip’s second. As the Ranikhet Express rumbled through the night I’d lain awake, recalling episodes from Jim Corbett’s Man-Eaters of Kumaon. We passed Moradabad a