The year was 1985. Harpreet Singh Chhabra, managing director of the 175-year-old company Baby Brand Saffron, was on his fifteenth visit to the Kashmir valley; this time for his honeymoon. He had been going there for as long back as he could remember. The Amritsar-based business his grandfather had set up was based on saffron: the family has been important dealers in the spice for nearly two centuries. As Harpreet and his bride lounged in a shikara on Dal lake, a small boat came up next