Old Delhi, the last of the seven
reincarnations of Delhi, subsumes most of the Mughal legacy. The legacy
manifests itself not only in the architectural marvels, but also (and in a more
interesting manner) in the lifestyle of generations that have lived here ever
since. The old, dilapidated rooftops of Old Delhi carry one such imprint—the
art of pigeon combat, kabootarbazi.
For me, the curiosity to meet these pigeon fanciers was first borne out
of William Dalrymple’s City of
Djinns. This curiosity took me deeper
into Matia Mahal, Haveli Azam Khan, and numerous other bylanes that bear the
signature of the Mughal era. In this era of multiplexes and satellite-fed
entertainment , it was difficult to imagine the survival of this traditional pastime,
that too in the heart of Delhi. As I climbed some of the rooftops in these
gallis, distances—both physical and historical—shrunk. Houses that seemed far
away while traversing the busy bylanes were now just a shout away. I was to
witness how people make hundreds of pigeons fly in tandem by guiding each
movement, how an uncommon language flows between the humans and pigeons. For
some men, it is a heritage of their forefathers; for others, it’s an expensive
hobby (and almost an addiction) and for the rest, it’s a stress buster and a
way to keep friendships going.
This work is a visual narrative of the time I spent on these rooftops
in the last one year. I love observing, experiencing and documenting
traditional ways of living, some of which will vanish sooner or later in this
In the winter sun, the walled city rooftops are crowded with men—young and old–sending their birds for ‘rounding’ trips. The air is filled with the cacophony of "aao, aao"as they urge their pigeons to fly distances and then come back so that they can identify their chhatt (roof) from distance.
are raised like their kids and fed on a rich diet of dry fruits, desi ghee,
millet and corn.
art of pigeon racing is a royal legacy. It is said that the sport reached its
zenith in Agra during the reign of Akbar and was then introduced to Delhi (then
Shahjahanabad) by Shahjahan.
Most of the kabootarbaz’s time is spent training the pigeon for the big day. The daily ritual includes feeding them, training them, and treating their ailments.
Afsar Ahmed, a local builder by profession, inherited this shauk (hobby) from his father who is an Ustad, a master. His roof in Katra Suzan Rai has over two hundred pigeons.
These pigeons are mostly either bought from local pigeon market or from the markets in Agra, Hyderabad, Patiala. Their feathers are sewn and they are left open on the roof so that they get used to the roof and start identifying it as their own.
There are separate coops for the males and the females. In bigger rooftops, there are separate coops for the sick birds. Sometimes these coops are further spanided based on how old and strong are the pigeons.
Unlike Agra, where pigeon races happen in open areas, the races in Old Delhi happen from the roof tops. Among the few surviving racing types is the “distance flying race” wherein the gola kabootars, which fly the farthest are declared the winners.
While there are thousands of pigeon handlers in old Delhi, there are only a few khalifas and even fewer Ustads: men who trained under earlier masters and for whom pigeon handling is a serious craft.
The time spent on the roof is a stress-buster. It is like a social gathering where friends and shagirds (students) meet over tea.
It seems like as if this legacy has kept the people together for years, and these bonds in turn have helped preserve this traditional pastime.