Old Delhi, the last of the seven reincarnations of Delhi, subsumes most of the Mughal legacy. The legacy manifests itself not only in the architectural marvels, but also (and in a more interesting manner) in the lifestyle of generations that have lived here ever since. The old, dilapidated rooftops of Old Delhi carry one such imprint—the art of pigeon combat, kabootarbazi. For me, the curiosity to meet these pigeon fanciers was first borne out of William Dalrymple’s City of Djinns