There were thirteen elephants here before. Now there’s no more money for elephants, but the elephant gate still stands,” the gentle-looking elderly man, who spotted us snooping around his courtyard several minutes earlier after we’d let ourselves in through a magnificent arched gateway told us. We assumed the mansion was no longer lived-in, but a small red car parked on the side of the driveway told us otherwise. Still, it looked empty, so we proceeded, taking photographs of this imposing,