Drive into Narada Gana Sabha on any day of the Margazhi Festival, and the first question the watchman will ask is, “Kutcheri-aa, canteen-aa?” (Are you here for the concert or the canteen?) In January and December, this bastion of the annual dance-and-music extravaganza in Chennai that goes by the terms “Margazhi Festival”, “Music Season” or just “Season”, draws lovers of Carnatic music, Bharatanatyam, and food. Despondent rasikas sulk at the ticket counters, as important