It is a picturesque downhill trek from the Dalai Lama’s residence in McLeod Ganj to Tenzin Tsundue’s house, a few metres uphill from the main bazaar of Dharamsala. The poet, essayist and activist lives in one of the rented rooms of an almost 100-year-old British bungalow, exuding an old-world charm even in disrepair. He calls it the Rangzen Ashram (rangzen meaning “freedom” in Tibetan). Four other tenants live with him in the “ashram”.“The ro