From the top of Agra’s Buddha Park the Taj Mahal is a changeable feast; its colours like the colours of the day. Sunrise, sunset, moonlight, all are mirrored by the white marble. From here it looks much like the little glass-housed replicas that sell by the lakh across the country. But to enjoy the view, you must leave your sense of smell at home. The adjoining colony, Kalindi Vihar, is a relatively new layout carved out of agricultural land many years earlier. Locals have little inter